How to Brew Your Own Elderflower Cordial

Why elderflower cordial belongs to a southern summer

From late May into early July, the hedgerows of southern England turn frothy with elderflowers. Along the lanes of Kent, Sussex, Hampshire, Dorset, Somerset and Wiltshire, the flat creamy heads appear just as the hawthorn fades. Their scent is sweet, musky and faintly citrusy — the smell of an English summer. A bottle of homemade elderflower cordial captures that scent in the most practical way: free flowers, sugar, lemons and a little citric acid become something refreshing and generous. It is perfect with sparkling water, and even better with gin.

What you will need

This makes about 2 litres of concentrated cordial, enough for many glasses. You will need:

• 20–25 large elderflower heads, freshly picked and free of insects.
• 1.5kg granulated sugar — ordinary white sugar is best; it lets the floral flavour sing.
• 1.5 litres water.
• 2 unwaxed lemons, zest and juice.
• 50g citric acid, available from chemists, homebrew suppliers or online.
• Equipment: a large heatproof bowl, a large saucepan, a fine sieve, muslin or a clean tea towel, a funnel and sterilised bottles.

Citric acid does more than add tartness. It lowers the pH, which helps preserve the cordial and keeps its flavour bright. Don't omit it if you want the cordial to keep well.

Picking elderflowers without stripping the hedge

Pick on a dry, sunny morning after the dew has lifted. The flowers are at their best in late May and June, before they turn brown and papery. Look for flat, creamy-white heads with fully open flowers and a strong sweet scent. Avoid brown, wilted or wet heads, and never pick from busy roadside verges where exhaust fumes and dog urine are a concern.

Use scissors to snip each head with a short stalk. Shake gently to dislodge insects, but try not to wash the flowers — you will wash away the pollen and much of the flavour. Only pick if you are certain of your identification. Elder has woody stems, opposite pinnate leaves and flat umbels of tiny creamy flowers. Some wild umbellifers are deadly, so if in doubt, leave it alone. Take only a few heads from each bush, and leave plenty for birds and insects.

The cordial recipe

Set aside an afternoon and a clean kitchen. The method is simple, but the details matter.

• Put the sugar and water in a large saucepan. Warm gently, stirring, until the sugar dissolves. Bring just to the boil, then turn off the heat.
• Pare the zest from the lemons in wide strips, avoiding the white pith. Slice the lemons.
• Put the elderflower heads, lemon zest, lemon slices and citric acid in a large heatproof bowl.
• Pour the hot syrup over the flowers. Stir well, cover with a clean cloth or lid, and leave to infuse for 24 hours. For a deeper flavour, leave up to 48 hours, stirring twice a day.
• Strain through a sieve lined with muslin or a clean tea towel. Do not squeeze the flowers too hard, or the cordial can turn bitter.
• Funnel into sterilised bottles and seal. Store in the fridge.

The cordial should be bright, fragrant and slightly thick. Taste a little diluted before bottling; if it is too strong, you can add a little more cooled sugar syrup, but most cooks prefer a robust concentrate.

Bottling, storing and keeping it safe

Sterilise your bottles properly. Wash them in hot soapy water, rinse well, then dry them in a low oven or use a sterilising solution designed for brewing. A dishwasher cycle on a hot setting also works.

Fill the bottles almost to the top, leaving a small headspace, and screw or clip the lids on tightly. Label with the date. In the fridge, the cordial will keep for several weeks. For longer storage, freeze it in plastic bottles, leaving room for expansion. If you see mould, or it smells fizzy or off, throw it away.

To serve, dilute one part cordial with five parts water, sparkling water or tonic. Adjust to taste — some like it stronger.

Serving ideas: from sparkling water to gin

Elderflower cordial is a natural partner for gin. Its soft floral sweetness rounds off the juniper and makes a long, refreshing drink.

• Simple sparkler: one part cordial, five parts sparkling water, plenty of ice, a slice of lemon and a sprig of mint.
• Elderflower gin and tonic: 25ml cordial, 50ml gin, 100ml tonic, ice and a slice of cucumber or lemon.
• Summer cup: add a splash to a jug of lemonade, lots of ice, orange slices, cucumber and mint.
• Kitchen uses: drizzle over fruit salad, yoghurt, poached peaches or a sponge pudding.

Once you have made your first batch, you will notice the difference between homemade cordial and most shop-bought versions: more perfume, less sweetness, and a clean, hedgerow flavour that tastes like a southern English summer. A bottle kept in the fridge means you are never more than a glass away from it.