Sussex steak pudding is a hearty suet pastry dish with beef and kidneys. Learn the slow steaming method for tender results.
Sussex steak pudding is a dish that speaks of cold evenings, roaring fires, and the deep satisfaction of a proper suet crust. Unlike its famous cousin, the steak and kidney pie, this pudding is steamed, not baked, which gives it a uniquely tender, almost melting texture. The filling is rich with beef and kidneys, bound in a savoury gravy that soaks into the suet pastry without making it soggy. It is a recipe that rewards patience, and once you have mastered it, you will wonder why you ever bothered with a pastry lid in the oven.
For the suet pastry, you will need:
For the filling:
Tip the flour, suet and salt into a large bowl. Mix lightly with your fingertips until the suet is evenly distributed. Add the cold water a little at a time, stirring with a knife, until the mixture comes together into a soft but not sticky dough. You may not need all the water. Turn out onto a floured surface and knead briefly – just enough to bring it together. Overworking will make the pastry tough. Wrap in cling film and rest for 20 minutes while you prepare the filling.
Butter a 1.2-litre (2-pint) pudding basin generously. Roll out two-thirds of the pastry to a round about 5mm thick. Line the basin, pressing the pastry into the corners and leaving a little overhang. Trim the excess, saving it for the lid. In a bowl, toss the beef, kidneys and onion with the flour, salt and pepper. Pack this mixture into the pastry-lined basin, then pour over the stock or water. Roll out the remaining pastry for the lid. Dampen the rim of the pastry with water, place the lid on top, and press firmly to seal. Trim away any excess. Cover the basin with a layer of pleated baking parchment, then a layer of foil, and tie securely with string. Make a handle with the string for easy lifting.
Place the basin in a large saucepan with a trivet or an upturned saucer in the bottom. Pour in boiling water to come halfway up the sides of the basin. Cover with a tight-fitting lid and bring to a gentle simmer. Steam for 4 to 4½ hours for a large pudding, or 3 hours for individual ones. It is crucial to top up the water every hour or so with boiling water from the kettle – do not let the pan boil dry. Resist the temptation to lift the lid; the pudding needs steady, moist heat to become tender. The suet crust will turn a pale golden colour and feel firm to the touch when done.
To serve, remove the foil and parchment. Run a thin knife around the edge of the basin, then place a warm plate on top and invert carefully. The pudding should slide out with a generous sigh of steam. Serve in thick wedges with buttered mash, spring greens or cavolo nero, and a jug of extra gravy made from the pan juices. A spoonful of mustard or pickled red cabbage cuts through the richness beautifully. Leftovers keep in the fridge for up to three days. Reheat by steaming again for 30 minutes, or slice and fry in butter until crisp – a Sussex breakfast treat. This is slow food at its finest, and a true taste of the South Downs.
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