Traditional Kentish Huffkins Recipe for Afternoon Tea

What Are Kentish Huffkins?

A huffkin is a soft, oval Kentish roll with a distinctive dimple pressed into its centre. It sits somewhere between a bread roll and a bun: light, close-textured, and faintly enriched with butter or lard. The dimple is not merely decorative. It cradles a generous curl of butter and a spoonful of jam, making huffkins an ideal candidate for afternoon tea. Traditionally they were baked in Kentish kitchens and eaten warm, split and buttered, sometimes with cheese or ham. They are simple to make, forgiving for the home baker, and far more satisfying than anything bought in a plastic wrapper. Once you have made a batch, you will understand why they have endured.

Ingredients for Traditional Huffkins

This recipe makes eight good-sized huffkins. Use strong white bread flour for a proper rise, and whole milk for a tender crumb. If you want the older, richer flavour, replace half the butter with lard.

• 500g strong white bread flour
• 1 tsp fine sea salt
• 1 tbsp caster sugar
• 7g fast-action dried yeast
• 300ml whole milk, lukewarm
• 40g unsalted butter, softened, plus extra for greasing
• Extra flour for dusting
• A little milk or beaten egg for glazing

Step-by-Step Method

1. Mix the dough. Put the flour, salt, sugar and yeast in a large bowl. Stir to combine, then add the softened butter and rub it into the flour with your fingertips until no large lumps remain. Make a well in the centre.

2. Add the milk. Pour in the lukewarm milk. Bring the mixture together with a wooden spoon, then use your hands to form a shaggy dough. The milk should feel comfortably warm, not hot, or it will kill the yeast.

3. Knead. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Knead for 10 to 12 minutes, until smooth, elastic and only slightly sticky. Alternatively, knead in a stand mixer with a dough hook for 6 to 8 minutes.

4. First prove. Place the dough in a lightly greased bowl, cover with a clean tea towel or cling film, and leave in a warm place for 1 to 1½ hours, until doubled in size.

5. Shape. Knock back the dough, then divide it into eight equal pieces, about 100g each. Roll each piece into a ball, then gently roll and stretch into an oval about 10cm long. Place on baking trays lined with baking parchment and dusted with flour, leaving space between each one.

6. Second prove. Cover loosely and leave for 30 to 40 minutes, until puffy and nearly doubled.

7. Dimple and bake. Heat the oven to 200°C (180°C fan, gas mark 6). Press a deep dimple into the centre of each huffkin with a floured thumb or finger, pressing almost to the base. Brush the tops with milk or beaten egg. Bake for 15 to 18 minutes, until golden brown and hollow-sounding when tapped underneath. Cool on a wire rack.

Tips for the Perfect Dimple and Crumb

The dimple is the signature of a huffkin, so do not be timid. Press firmly. If the indentation springs back before baking, press it again just before the tray goes into the oven. A floured thumb prevents sticking.

For a soft crust, brush with milk rather than egg. Egg gives a glossy, more brittle finish; milk keeps the crust tender. If you use lard, the crumb will be especially delicate. Weigh the dough portions if you want evenly sized rolls, and prove them in a warm, draught-free spot. A cold kitchen will slow the rise, so give the dough more time rather than more heat. Finally, do not overbake. Huffkins should be pale gold, not dark brown.

Serving Huffkins for Afternoon Tea

Warm huffkins are at their best split in half, buttered generously, and topped with jam. Strawberry, raspberry or damson all work well. For a proper Kentish afternoon tea, add a spoonful of clotted cream and a pot of strong tea. The dimple holds the butter and jam beautifully, so each bite is balanced.

They are also excellent with savoury toppings. Try mature Cheddar and chutney, sliced ham and mustard, or a little smoked salmon. A split huffkin can be lightly toasted under the grill if they have cooled, but fresh is best. Serve them in a linen-lined basket and let everyone help themselves.

Making Ahead and Storing

Huffkins are best on the day they are baked. Keep them in an airtight tin for up to two days. To refresh, sprinkle with a little water and warm in a 160°C oven for 5 minutes. They freeze well: wrap cooled huffkins in a freezer bag and freeze for up to one month. Thaw at room temperature, then warm through. You can also make the dough the night before and let it prove slowly in the fridge. Bring it back to room temperature, shape, prove and bake as above. That way, fresh huffkins for afternoon tea are only a short step away.